ARGENTINA

Argentina's stunning natural wonders, an elegant capital with a European flavoured sophistication,
and a passionate culture are as tempting as ever. This is the home of sultry Tango and juicy steaks a country where
an interest in football (soccer) and some nimble foot skills may be all you need to blend in with the locals.

Pre-20th-Century History
Pre-Columbian Argentina was farmed by sedentary Indian groups such as the Diaguita and used as a hunting ground by nomads. Indian resistance inhibited Spanish incursions and discouraged Spanish settlement. Buenos Aires was not successfully established until 1580, and remained a backwater for 200 years. A declining and unevenly distributed Indian population, which could not be milked for its labour, led to the creation of huge cattle ranches, known as haciendas - the genesis of the legendary gaucho and the source of great wealth for a lucky few.

Buenos Aires became the capital of the new Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata in 1776, acknowledgment that the region had outgrown Spain's political and economic domination. However, continuing dissatisfaction with Spanish interference led to the revolution of May 25, 1810. The Federalists of the interior (conservative landowners, supported by the gauchos and the rural working class) advocated provincial autonomy, while the Unitarists of Buenos Aires (cosmopolitan city dwellers who welcomed the injection of European capital, immigrants and ideas) upheld Buenos Aires' central authority. After a disastrous and tyrannical period of rule by the nominally Federalist Juan Manuel Rosas, Buenos Aires and Unitarism prevailed, ushering in a new era of growth and prosperity with the Unitarist constitution of 1853.

European immigration, foreign investment and trade were hallmarks of the new liberalism. However, excessive foreign interests made the economy particularly vulnerable to world economic downturns; wealth was concentrated in the hands of very few, unemployment rose as smallholdings failed, and farmers were forced to leave the land and head for the cities.

Modern History
The beginning of the 20th century saw increasingly weak civilian rule and economic failure, leading to a military coup in 1943, which paved the way for dictator Juan Perón. He won the presidency in 1946 and again in 1952. With his equally popular wife Eva, he instituted a stringent economic program, which stressed domestic industrialisation and self-determination. He was ousted in 1955 and banished to Spain; this initiated almost 30 years of disastrous military rule. Peron returned to power in 1973 and his third wife, Isabel Martínez de Perón, was elected vice president. After Perón's death in 1974, she became the hemisphere's first woman chief of state, assuming control of a nation teetering on economic and political collapse. Her government fell in 1976, and the new military government instituted a reign of terror - the Dirty War - until 1983; paramilitary death squads crushed government opposition and up to 30,000 people 'disappeared'.

This internal conflict came to an end when Argentina seized the British-controlled Falkland Islands (Malvinas to the Argentineans); Britain declared war and eventually won them back. Ownership, however, remains disputed.
This failure helped end military rule, and the country returned to the 1853 constitution. Carlos Menem instituted major economic changes, pegging the peso one-to-one with the US dollar in 1991, which reduced inflation from 5000% in 1989 to 1% in 1997.

Fernando de la Rua, elected in 1999, promised a crackdown on corruption, and tough fiscal measures to balance Argentina's budget. But austere plans prompted nationwide strikes and demonstrations. Argentina plunged into economic and political turmoil in December 2001 when it defaulted on a 132 billion US dollar loan repayment - the largest default in history.

On January 1, 2002, Eduardo Duhalde became president. A staunch Perónist, Duhalde took a populist and protectionist stance by unpegging the peso from the dollar, which caused the peso to lose almost 70% of its value.

Recent History
Peronist Néstor Kirchner, the former governor of Santa Cruz, became Argentina's president in May 2003, after former president Carlos Menem abandoned the race. Kirchner vowed to aggressively reform the courts, police, and armed services and to prosecute perpetrators of the dirty war. Argentina's economy has been rebounding since its near collapse in 2001, with an impressive growth rate of about 8% since Kirchner took office. In March 2005, Kirchner announced that the country's debt had been successfully restructured. In Jan. 2006, Argentina paid off its remaining multi-million IMF debt early, a dramatic move that not all economists thought were beneficial.

In October 2007, First Lady Cristina Fernández de Kirchner was elected president. She kept many of her husband's ministers, but implied that she will introduce changes to the country during her presidency. Although she is as much a nationalist as her husband, and refuses to get involved with the IMF, Fernández has shown interest in creating better ties with the United States, Europe, and Brazil.

On April 2, 2008, farmers called for a temporary halt to the 21-day long strike in order to enter into negotiations with the government. The strike, which began in response to increased taxes on export goods, has caused highways to shut down and severe food shortages nationwide.

Getting There
Argentina has excellent worldwide air connections, with Aeropuerto Internacional Ezeiza (35km outside Buenos Aires) the main international airport.
A multitude of land and river crossing points connect Argentina with neighbouring Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay, Bolivia and Chile. Travel from Chile usually involves going over the Andes, while overland travel to Bolivia can mean journeying through the border towns of La Quiaca, Tarija or Pocitos. Paraguay can be reached by bus and river, and the most common crossing to Brazil is via Foz do Iguaçu or Uruguaiana. Uruguay is linked to Argentina by road bridges, and frequent ferries sail between Buenos Aires and Colonia in Uruguay.

Getting Around
AIR - Several major Argentine airlines attempt to make this big country appear smaller. In some cases (if you are, for instance, in Patagonia), flying can be cheaper than covering the same distance by bus. Domestic flights carry a departure tax.

BUS - If you're doing any serious travelling around Argentina, you'll become very familiar with the country's excellent bus network, which reaches almost everywhere. Buses are fast, comfortable and can be a rather luxurious experience.

CAR - Because Argentina is so large, many parts are accessible only by private vehicle, despite the country's extensive public transport system. This is especially true in Patagonia, where distances are great and buses can be infrequent. If driving in Argentina, whether your own car or a rental, it's worthwhile being a member - you may already be - of the Automóvil Club Argentino, which has offices, service stations and garages throughout the country, offering free road service and towing in and around major destinations.

Bicycle - Partnered with camping, cycling can cut the costs of your trip fourfold. And of course you'll see more details and meet more curious locals.
Train - Private operators have assumed control of the formerly state-owned railways, but have shown little interest in providing passenger service except on commuter lines in and around Buenos Aires where the network services the suburbs surrounding the city area. The Subte (Underground) is South America's oldest subway and is still a quick, efficient and easy way to get around.

When to Go
For residents of the Northern Hemisphere, Argentina offers travellers the possibility of enjoying two summers in one year, but the country's great variety and elongated geography means visiting is pleasant during any season. Patagonian destinations, such as the Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz, are best visited in the summer months (December to February) when the weather's milder and more services are available. Spring and Autumn are the best times to visit Buenos Aires. Mendoza, Córdoba and the Lake District are all spectacular in Autumn, when the leaves are fiery reds and yellows, the temperatures are comfortable and the crowds are few.

Northern Argentina, including the Iguazú Falls in the subtropical Misiones province, is also more pleasant in Winter or Spring when heat and humidity are less oppressive. Ski season runs mid-June through mid-October, and the resorts are most expensive and most crowded during July and August when every Porteño (person from Buenos Aires) seems to be on the slopes.

Weather
Argentina's climate ranges from subtropical in the north to humid and steamy in the centre, and cold in the south. The upper Andes region has erratic rainfall, flash floods (in summer), searing heat, snow at higher elevations. The flat Pampas areas are also vulnerable to flooding. Patagonian weather ranges widely during the year, from relatively temperate in the northeast to glacial along the Andes to fairly chilly in the far south.

Money & Costs
The Argentine peso is the national currency and is accepted everywhere. Only higher-end hotels accept US dollars, and most restaurants do not. In Buenos Aires, US dollars are more commonly accepted at both, but you should always carry pesos.

Please note that prices are going up fast and Argentina it's no longer the rock-bottom bargain it was even last year. Part of this is due to supply and demand - skyrocketing visitation has led hoteliers and restaurateurs to raise their prices. And part of it is inflation, which is back with a vengeance. So call or check websites for hotels and tour operators before budgeting your trip - or be prepared for sticker shock.

However, it's good to keep things in perspective - Argentina is still very affordable for what it offers. Where else can you enjoy a steak dinner with a good bottle of wine for under US$10.00? Or a double scoop of amazing ice cream for less than US$2? Certainly not in Sydney.

Buenos Aires – More European than South American in flavour, Buenos Aires' heart boasts bustling streets, grand avenues, old-time cafes and stylish restaurants. It's a city of tragedy and elation; a vibrant, cosmopolitan capital where locals are renowned for their flair and cockiness, even in times of adversity.

For the traveller, Buenos Aires delivers. Wander the cobbled streets, marvelling at faded architectural glories and colourfully painted metal houses; talk world politics and football (soccer) in an atmospheric old cafe; then tuck into a famously delicious Argentine steak to power a long night's partying.

El Calafate – Despite its touristy facade, gung-ho El Calafate makes a pleasant pit stop.
El Calafate claims its livelihood from a single tourist attraction, the spectacular Glacier Perito Moreno in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, some 80km away. But the township itself is prettily lit, tree-lined and stuffed with souvenir shops, restaurants and showy weekend vacationers.

Mar del Plata – The one-time 'Pearl of the Atlantic' is now less exclusive but still has charm.
Mar del Plata, has been transformed from commercial centre to essential beach destination for middle-class holidaymakers. The wide, attractive beach bustles in summer when inland-dwelling Argentines head to the coast.

Mendoza – Tree-lined avenues, loads of sunshine...and the finest wines known to humanity.
Mendoza is one of Argentina's finest cities, with crowded outdoor cafes, beautiful plazas, a bustling shopping district and an exciting nightlife which takes place as much outside the bars and restaurants as it does inside. What's more, it just happens to be in the heart of wine country.

The city's proximity to the famous Andes makes it an excellent base for skiers, mountaineers and hikers. Then there's the volcanic landscapes in southern Mendoza province, so utterly spectacular they're considered as internationally important as Perito Moreno and Iguazú Falls.

Cordoba – Córdoba oozes colonial charm and bursts with personality. With seven universities, Córdoba is the educational centre of Argentina, giving the city a buzz that some say is unmatched anywhere in the country. Furthermore, it was given the hefty title of Cultural Capital of the Americas in 2006. Spiced with a rich colonial flavour, you won't want to leave.
Córdoba may be second to Buenos Aires in size, but it boasts the country's best-preserved colonial architecture, from the breathtaking 17th-century Manzana Jesuítica (Jesuit Block) and underground Jesuit crypts, to Argentina's oldest university and the town hall on Plaza San Martín.

Puerto Iguazú – Iguazú can be a religious experience: make it your mission.
Puerto Iguazú is decidedly smaller and quieter (but no further from the falls) than Foz do Iguaçu, its Brazilian counterpart. Essentially a tourist town, it's focused on servicing the hundreds of thousands who come to wonder at the falls and national park.

Salta – The gracious tourist headquarters of the Andean northwest. One of Argentina's best preserved colonial cities, lively Salta is the centre for excursions to the subtropical mountain forests of Parque Nacional El Finca Rey, the vernacular architecture of Valles Calchaquíes, and the vineyards and polychrome desert canyons of Cafayate.

Ushuaia – A dramatic location that few places on earth can match. Set between the Beagle Channel and jagged glacial peaks, the southernmost city in the world is a coveted destination for belt-notching travellers. As the most important gateway to Antarctica and a port for cruising yachts.

The entire mountain range behind Ushuaia, with its lakes and rivers, has first-rate hiking, skiing and boating opportunities, as well as the chance to go as far south as Tierra del Fuego.

Tucuman – This brash and energetic city is the gatekeeper of Argentine independence. Once upon a time, Tucumán flourished. Given an economic boost, it seems possible that this proud, sophisticated city will do so again. It has a character all of its own, with colonial and 19th-century historical sites, lots of cultural attractions, and enough cafe-bars to keep any traveller happy.

Bariloche – Once a tranquil resort for the Argentine elite, San Carlos de Bariloche is now the Lake District's principal destination. Sitting on the shores of beautiful Lago Nahuel Huapi and ringed by lofty mountain peaks, its proximity to the region's premier ski resort makes it ground zero for snow-heads.

Bariloche is also the chocolate capital of Argentina - the amount of storefront window space dedicated to fresh chocolate is exhilarating. Away from the downtown bustle of souvenir shops and trendy boutiques, the surrounding area offers spectacular hiking and great camping, rafting and skiing.